Hi friends! I’m Kat, and I’m guest blogging today to tell you about one of the things I love to wear – partial band bras!
I started my own bramaking journey in 2016 – like so many of us, it was a product of my frustration at the lack of bras that fit me in stores. In particular, I have a very small band size and a comparatively large cup – my last RTW bra that actually fit was a 30F. In addition, my sternum doesn’t lay flat like most folks’ – I have a bump that is sometimes irritated by underwires that come up too far at the centre front. I know so many of us have similar stories, but the silver lining of those frustrating hours spent in fitting rooms is that it directly inspired me to go home, google ‘how to make a bra’ – and the rest, as they say, is history!
Why choose partial band?
Through a lot of trial and error, I discovered that I’m most comfortable in partial band bras. I like them because they don’t extend down onto my ribcage – the lower edge of my full band bras always feels like it’s sitting too far down on my torso even when, objectively, the fit is correct. Here are a few reasons you might prefer a partial band bra:
- Those who find their full band bras feel constricting or uncomfortable (even if they technically fit!)
- People whose breast asymmetry requires significant differences in cup sizes – these are easier to adjust with a partial band bra!
- Active folks who find a band constricting during workouts or other times of intense movement
- Individuals who want an easy option for a front closure
Or, you could just like the way a partial band bra looks! Even if you adore wearing full band bras, you might wish to try a partial band bra as an experiment, just to see what you think!
How are they different?
Bra bands are a critical component of fit – without a stable, structured band, the bra would be a garment that sat on top of the chest, rather than something engineered to provide the support we need – so how does this work when part of the band disappears?
Essentially, the ‘work’ of the cradle is transferred to the wires, in their channeling – complemented by the wings and bridge, which are retained, albeit in a different format. The straps also do a little bit more of the work in a partial band than they do in a full band – not lifting, but supporting the cup to stay upright when it has less structure underneath.
As there’s such a difference in the structure of the band, there’s quite a bit of difference in the way these bras feel when worn, and honestly the biggest piece of advice I can give you is to make one and try it out. You’ll either find, like me, that you love it – or you’ll find that something about the fit doesn’t quite jive with how you prefer your bras to feel.
Additionally, I find partial band cups can be quite fun – they offer an excellent canvas for experimentation, and they stand out differently than full-band cups because they’re not visually framed by that cradle. One of the bras I made I played into this sort of separate look, and modified my cup pieces to look similar to the ridges of a seashell, with seams covered in velvet ribbon. It’s still wearable as an ‘everyday’ bra (even with the harness I added!) but the seaming gives it something a bit extra, which would very much have disappeared into a full cradle!
Limitations
Partial band bras aren’t for everyone – in the same way I’m not a fan of the way full band bras feel, you may not prefer a partial band. In general, since a bit of that band material is removed, they can be less well suited to the larger end of the size spectrum, and they do require the structure of the underwire to create support, so if you have a preference for wireless bras, they may not be suitable. That said, the conversion from full to partial band is pretty straightforward (you can check out my tutorial on that modification here!) so you’re only one bra away from finding out whether you like how you feel in a partial band bra!
Sew with me!
If you’d like to sew a partial band bra, fitting the band is still the best place to start – just like it is for full band bras. This year, I’m teaching a class specifically on this aspect as part of the Bra Bee! It’s all about ‘partial band fitting bands’ – that is, creating a fitting band when the band itself doesn’t fully exist in the traditional sense. You can use this fitting band to create a well-fitting partial band bra, and make the experience of trying, modifying, and experimenting with different cup pattern configurations and styles even easier. I’d love to have you along for the class!
If you’d like to keep up with me and my projects, I’m kat.makes on Tiktok, Instagram, and YouTube, and my blog is katmakes.com!